Founded in Brooklyn during the pandemic, “La Trafila” has become, in just a few years, a recognized name in the artisanal fresh pasta industry in the United States. Behind the project is Luigi Speranza, a chef and entrepreneur from Naples who arrived in New York in 2017 with one goal in mind: to challenge himself in one of the most competitive city in the world.
Let’s start with an inevitable question: what is the one dish you could never get tired of eating, even if you made it every day?
Spaghetti al pomodoro, without a doubt. To me, it represents Italy, the Mediterranean, and my roots. There is the white of the pasta, the red of the tomato, and the green of the basil. It seems like a simple dish, but that is exactly why it is difficult to do well. When you have only a few ingredients, there is nowhere to hide. Every single one of them has to be excellent. And it is a dish you can eat all year round, in summer and in winter. It is a classic that never gets old.
When did you realize that cooking would be your path?
The truth is that this passion has always been part of me. My mother passed it on to me when I was very young. I was born with a curiosity about food. I asked questions about everything and wanted to understand why things were done a certain way. I often say that one of the greatest blessings in my life was being born in Naples. The other was being born with this passion. Some things you learn, others are already inside you from the very beginning.
What is your earliest memory connected to cooking?
Sunday mornings. I was four or five years old and would wake up early just to stay close to my mother while she cooked. I would ask her why meatballs were made a certain way, why they were round, why they were fried before being added to the sauce. Looking back, it is funny. Instead of wondering why a soccer ball was round, I was wondering about meatballs. Maybe that was already a pretty clear sign of what my future would be.
Before becoming an entrepreneur in New York, you worked in Italy, across Europe, and in the United States. What do you remember about that period?
When I arrived in New York in 2017, La Trafila did not exist yet. I worked as a corporate chef for a company that operated a fresh pasta concept.
It was a very important period because it allowed me to understand the American market from the inside. I continued in that role until early 2020. Then, one month before the pandemic, I decided to leave that professional path. Shortly afterward, La Trafila was born.
What dream, or what idea, brought you to New York in 2017?
The desire to challenge myself. New York is a city that constantly forces you to measure yourself against your own limits. It does not give you breaks and it does not allow you to become complacent. I arrived with my experience, my training, and the conviction that hard work and determination eventually make the difference.
How difficult is it to build a career in a city like New York?
It takes determination, but above all humility. It is a city where you never feel like you have truly arrived. In fact, the moment you think you have, New York changes the rules of the game. I see it this way: you do not impose your conditions on the city. The city imposes its conditions on you. You need the energy and the ability to adapt continuously. It is a constant challenge, but that is also what makes it unique.
What was the insight that led to the creation of La Trafila?
It came from a combination of necessity and vision. During the pandemic, many restaurants were closing or operating under enormous difficulties. There was strong economic and professional pressure, but at the same time there was a need to keep moving forward. I decided to put everything I had learned over the years on the line and bet on fresh pasta. Not because fresh pasta did not already exist, but because I felt there was room for a different approach: greater attention to ingredients, respect for tradition, and a very wide range of products.
Why did you decide to focus specifically on fresh pasta?
Because it is a product with almost endless possibilities. We do not make just a classic tagliatella. We produce dozens of variations, from spinach pasta to squid ink pasta and even smoked preparations. I like to compare it to a painter. If you give a painter only one color, there is not much they can do. If you give them twenty colors, they can create a much richer work of art. We wanted to give chefs that same creative freedom.
La Trafila was born during the pandemic. How much did that period shape the project?
It shaped it tremendously. The pandemic was a tragedy that changed the world, bringing pain and enormous consequences. But it also deeply changed the restaurant industry. Many restaurants, even after reopening, were operating under significant limitations. They needed products that could speed up service without sacrificing quality. Fresh pasta was a perfect answer to that need. In that context, many customers discovered the potential of a product they had previously viewed in a more limited way. We were ready to recognize and respond to that shift.
Was there a particularly difficult moment you had to face?
The truth is that difficult moments never really end. They change form, but they are always there. In the beginning, I tended to blame myself for every problem. Over time, I realized that obstacles are simply part of the journey. Today, I try to see them as lessons. Every problem already contains a solution. The challenge is finding it. Once you do, you have taken a step forward. That is how we have grown over the years.
What are the biggest challenges for an artisanal producer today?
The most important one is maintaining the same level of quality over time. As you grow, the risk is losing the artisanal character that made you recognizable in the first place. We want to avoid that. We want customers who chose us six years ago to find the same attention and care today. Then there is another huge challenge: building a team and keeping it motivated. Finding talented people is difficult. Convincing them to stay and grow with you is even harder.
Looking ahead, where do you see La Trafila in five years?
Today, it is difficult to make long-term plans. The world changes quickly, and you have to remain flexible. What I can say is that we want to continue growing across the United States. Today we reach approximately 15% of U.S. states, and demand continues to increase. One project we are currently working on is expanding our facility, with the goal of increasing production capacity by 50%. It is a significant investment that will prepare us for the next stage of growth.
Is there a goal you have not yet achieved that you would like to accomplish in the coming years?
More than a single milestone, my goal is to keep expanding the business without losing our identity. I want a restaurant in California to receive our pasta with the same quality as a restaurant located just a few miles from our facility in New York. That is the challenge that motivates me every day.
If you had to summarize your entrepreneurial journey in one sentence, what would it be?
Always believe. Never give up. It may sound like a simple phrase, but it truly summarizes everything. Problems will come. Inevitably. They still do today. The difference lies in how you deal with them. I have learned that every obstacle is an opportunity to improve both the company and yourself. That is why I keep repeating the same thing to myself, from years: Never give up. Never stop believing in what you do.
